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Billabong Pro Tahiti… Young And Gun

Hours to go and some people will be feeling more anxiety than the rest. Will the swell come? Will it be on shore and crappy. Will it be small and funky? Will I leave a piece of me I can’t do without on the reef somewhere? Lots of surfers have been asked if they have seen the reef at Pipe. Did you ever snorkel along and look at whats below? Most that have kind of wish they hadn’t looked at it’s gnarly reality. So how about Teahupoo. Welll not many have looked and I doubt any really want to… It is mean as you like. But when it’s your turn to go… It’s your turn. Maybe it’s better to be young and crazy rather than older and more damaged by experience? We’ll find out in thirty hours!

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